Le Bardo Museo

We came early this morning to try to connect on the internet and waited for two hours and the internet cafe never opened. Finally left and went to the Le Bardo Museo on the cable car. Beautiful building, old palace or something, with mosaics from carthage and other roman settlements. They were incredible. A mosque nearby was calling to prayer. We had a lunch of olive bread, cheese, olives, pears, oranges, tangerines, and nuts. Sean made friends with a wild kitty. And then I lost Sean on the way back. We were going to get off the cable car, which was packed, and I made it through the door as it was closing, but he didn't. I haven't seen him since around 3pm. I left a note with the room key to meet me at the clock tower or the internet cafe at 5pm. He's about an hour overdue. We leave tomorrow night for Roma on the ferry.

Carthage, Tunisia

Carthage Roman Palace


We got up early and took the train to Hannibal Carthage stop north of Tunis. There are eight to ten sites spread through the area. Sean and I walked to the coast through residential areas of beautiful villas. The layouts with patios, landings, arched windows were so well designed.

It was partly cloudy with squalls blowing through with heavy rain and thunder. Since it was so warm and sunny in town we didn't bring umbrellas or hats.

Carthage has been plundered so many times that there wasn't much left structurally, but the sites were charming; especially the palace on the hill with mosaics and courtyards. We had a lunch of tangerines and roasted cashews and pistachios. We made most of the other sites as a wind storm started moving in and we left.

Took several stops farther up the line to the village of Siddi Bou Said. All the houses are white with blue trim on a hill and bluff that overlooks the coast. After climbing through the streets and out to the bluff, Sean carried me to the train station and we rolled back into Tunis. Dark clouds moving in and wind blowing hard.

Tunis, Tunisia

At an internet store. No internet connections since leaving Palermo. There is very little internet except in the cafes and we've only found one. No wireless and Sean's battery was dead in Trapani and Palermo. Sean left his converter in Rome so his computer and now camera are not charged. Hopefully can find one here.

Sean on the Ferry to Tunis



Got into Tunis late last night on the ferry from Trapani. Beautiful full moon and clear night. Sean and I rode most of the way on the top outside deck. Passing islands in the night. Customs was easy after our passports were checked multiple times by every agent we passed. Waved through the metal detectors to be hand-frisked. Friendly agents and we exited the station to dark night 20k from town.

Found a hotel on the bay at 1pm and awoke to the call to prayer at sunrise (barking dogs through the night). Beautiful tile and arches. Took the train into Tunis and emptied out onto the boulevard. First comment as we are pulling our bags on wheels down the sidewalk was, "Bon voyage." Sean's Italian is getting us through with my spattering of French.

We are looking for a hotel in Tunis near the Medina to drop our stuff and then check things out. So far feels safe, clean, and friendly. I think we are sort of a novelty. No other Anglos around. The streets are packed in the Latin tradition for evenings (and mornings and afternoons).

Medina Rooftop

There is a walking tour on the map through the old town, palaces, market, and museums. Supposed to have the best collection of Roman murals in the world, and then to Carthage, St. Augustine, and the coast. Fairly regular connections back to Italy.

Taking the Train to Naples and the Overnight Ferry to Palermo, Sicily

Beautiful train ride out of Rome into the countryside with Roman guard posts on the hillside and the aqueduct spreading south. Vineyards and farmland villas. Into mid-Naples, which was trashed and worn looking, but everyone friendly and helpful.

Caught a bus to the port for our ferry connection to Palermo. Had 3-4 hours so walked up from coastal area into a much brighter, cleaner, charming city. Glorious piazzas from the Renaissance and Roman ruins.

Traffic crossings are nuts. We usually wait until some 65+ year old with an umbrella or cane calmly steps off the curb without hesitating into raging traffic and fall in behind her shielded. Traffic miraculously slows and maneuvers on each side as we move in a group to the other side intimidated by a brief glare or shake of the umbrella at cars that come too close.

The ferry was huge and very clean (11 floors) and nearly empty. We had a rear sitting area to ourselves with access to outside decks. Ferry left at 8pm and we pulled into Palermo at 6am. Sean and I went outside at 2am to look at stars, constellations, and the moon shining across the water. Which way is north? Found the dippers, Mars, and the north star. Warm breeze with the decks to ourselves. Back up at 5am to watch the coastal lights as we neared Palermo. On the street at dawn and walking through the morning markets and back streets. Beautiful town.

I'm starting to sweat with too many clothes on and pulling luggage through the streets. Heading back to the port area to check on connections to Tunis.

It's Sean's 22nd birthday, and I asked him if he was feeling any aches around the head or torso. He has been such a good ambassador. He talks to the hustlers selling socks, underwear, special hotel, taxi, etc., and politely tells them no. He yells at young kids who are begging with a strong "NO". Frequently Italians have gone out of their way to help us (after Sean's politeness). He befriended a stray lab roaming through the Naples port area; talked to him in Italian, scratched his ears, and gave him some bread scraps. He followed us the rest of the night. Also, after breaking a large bill in front of a beggar, he gave him an offering saying, "You can't show large amounts of money in front of needy people without giving something." Traveling in Italy has been so much easier with Sean's guidance.

Walklin Walking Tour

I should have brought my computer. It's hard sharing and if I wait too long for my turn, I fall asleep. But waking up early; 3-4am and then using the hotel computers. I'm on Sean's this AM for the first time. Leaving this morning for Napoli in the Campagnia region and Palermo in the autonomous region of Sicily. 2nd class train and ferry at pretty cheap rates, about 40 Euros. It will be slower and cheaper outside Rome, although the Hotel Lodi is clean, convenient, safe, and very reasonably priced for a large city. We might go to Pompeii (buried by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius two thousand years ago) or catch a ferry to Tunis.







Margherita Ponte over Tiber River

We had a full day yesterday. It was raining hard all day until 3pm and then the sun broke through. We did a walking tour from a book through old Rome sections that was very informative and directed fairly clearly through the meandering streets. Pretty cool and then walked along Tiber and through the old bridges. Found San Angilo Castillo that had a spectacular view of the city and very interesting Michelangelo inspired frescoes on the ceiling and walls. More rowdy than the Vatican with apparently good times for all (in the scenes). Then the Spanish Steps for the sunset. Walked back through neighborhoods and had hot pizza and clementines. Besides the aqueducts, the Lodi neighborhood has several piazzas, and markets. Rolling hills with easy bus, train, and subway access within blocks. Subway and train experiences have helped negotiate Rome.

Very comfortable getting around with a feeling that it's safe and no one will hassle. Even see single women walking alone late through the streets.

Vatican Tour

Vatican gallery
Vatican marble inlaid table
Sean by Vatican Wall
Street across from Hotel Lodi with Aqueduct

Rome Update/Waiting for Photos

This computer is grinding along at snail pace. I'm feeling healthy. The Michaelangelo and Raphael's were so imposing. Bright colors on such an incredible scale. Hoping the pace will slow. Too much to see and moving towards the small scale. Hope to do the walking tours through old neighborhoods, which should be much nicer than the monoliths. Italians seem really healthy.

Sean's Italian is impressive. He chooses a partner and enters the dance. Jumps right in. He jokes with the street venders, offers comments to people on the street. What a great ambassador.

Tonight will be our last night at Lodi and then moving south. Heavy rain last night, but warm and enjoying being outside. Still into clementines (pronounced "clementeen," which are tangerines in the US or mekon in Japan) and pizza slices. Sean wants to cook. Sending some more photos. I'll have Sean keep trying. Alternating shoes and feet are better. We are putting in the miles and walk as much as we can.