Taking the Train to Naples and the Overnight Ferry to Palermo, Sicily

Beautiful train ride out of Rome into the countryside with Roman guard posts on the hillside and the aqueduct spreading south. Vineyards and farmland villas. Into mid-Naples, which was trashed and worn looking, but everyone friendly and helpful.

Caught a bus to the port for our ferry connection to Palermo. Had 3-4 hours so walked up from coastal area into a much brighter, cleaner, charming city. Glorious piazzas from the Renaissance and Roman ruins.

Traffic crossings are nuts. We usually wait until some 65+ year old with an umbrella or cane calmly steps off the curb without hesitating into raging traffic and fall in behind her shielded. Traffic miraculously slows and maneuvers on each side as we move in a group to the other side intimidated by a brief glare or shake of the umbrella at cars that come too close.

The ferry was huge and very clean (11 floors) and nearly empty. We had a rear sitting area to ourselves with access to outside decks. Ferry left at 8pm and we pulled into Palermo at 6am. Sean and I went outside at 2am to look at stars, constellations, and the moon shining across the water. Which way is north? Found the dippers, Mars, and the north star. Warm breeze with the decks to ourselves. Back up at 5am to watch the coastal lights as we neared Palermo. On the street at dawn and walking through the morning markets and back streets. Beautiful town.

I'm starting to sweat with too many clothes on and pulling luggage through the streets. Heading back to the port area to check on connections to Tunis.

It's Sean's 22nd birthday, and I asked him if he was feeling any aches around the head or torso. He has been such a good ambassador. He talks to the hustlers selling socks, underwear, special hotel, taxi, etc., and politely tells them no. He yells at young kids who are begging with a strong "NO". Frequently Italians have gone out of their way to help us (after Sean's politeness). He befriended a stray lab roaming through the Naples port area; talked to him in Italian, scratched his ears, and gave him some bread scraps. He followed us the rest of the night. Also, after breaking a large bill in front of a beggar, he gave him an offering saying, "You can't show large amounts of money in front of needy people without giving something." Traveling in Italy has been so much easier with Sean's guidance.